Ask The Lounge

Yes. A healthy house leaks; an energy-efficient house controls how it leaks. Build tight, ventilate right—or prepare for musty regrets.

Not quite. PGH is the chill cousin—less strict, still smart. It's about thoughtful, achievable high-performance design that doesn’t require certification. The authors have often said it’s a "common sense approach to high performance building.”

Totally. Just know how they interact. Like cocktails, mixing is fine—as long as you understand the chemistry. (And never underestimate a vapor barrier.)

Slab edge insulation. It’s the arch-nemesis of comfort when skipped. Also: airtight attic hatches. (Nobody wants a drafty trap door.)

Nope. It's the carbon cost of building materials, and it matters a lot. You can’t solar-panel your way out of concrete overload.

Depends. Mini-split? Sure. Radiant? Maybe. Wood stove? Romantic, but risky. The right system is the one that fits the load, layout, and lifestyle—not your HVAC sub’s habit.

Walk them through comfort, condensation, and long-term value. Then hand them a triple-glazed window sample and watch their eyebrows go up.

Ooh… depends on climate and budget. But we love double-stud walls with cellulose. Simple, effective, and oh-so-fluffy. With the new rigid wood fiber insulation being produced from our friends at TimberHP, we’re also fans of an ‘outsulation’ approach of 3 ½” of bio-based board over your insulated 2x6 stud wall. This keeps your sheathing warm and makes it a perfect place to handle air-sealing and vapor control without the worrying about other trades poking holes in them. If you are using a product like Huber’s Zip system sheathing then that system can be both AIR and VAPOR control layers at the same time.

Absolutely. Sustainability isn’t a style. It’s just good design… Whether your vibe is farmhouse or brutalist box, good detailing makes it green.

Item description Putting the ERV in the attic outside of the conditioned space. access. That, and any kind of wood siding without strapping.

Fewer layers, clear transitions, and tolerance for sloppy tape work. Real-world crews deserve real-world drawings.

Sometimes. You NEED an air barrier (or air control layer), and sometimes it can ALSO be your vapor control layer.  But you need to know where your dew point is likely to be in your wall before you try that trick. It’s a complicated subject and deserves a whole podcast Episode. Lucky for you, we’ve recorded one.

Breaking continuity at the corners and transitions. Air, vapor, insulation—treat them like uninterrupted envelopes.

Often, yes. It’s like a cozy jacket vs. stuffing sweaters between your ribs. But it needs proper detailing to avoid... unpleasant sandwiches.

Only if you like surprises. Moisture-laden surprises. Closed-cell or vented assemblies are much safer bets. Even better is to detail your assemblies such that spray foam isn’t necessary. We avoid spray foam where we can. When we MUST use spray foam, we make sure it is an HFO spray foam with a lower global warming potential. And we make sure we’re nowhere near our buildings when the installers are spraying their toxic materials in the house.

Under 1 ACH50 is great. Or under 0.07 cfm50 is great. These are totally achievable, and we challenge you to do even better!

Absolutely. If your mechanicals don’t have a home, your floor plan doesn’t have a future.

"Net zero" when it means "oversized PV on a leaky box." True net-zero starts with a tight, efficient envelope.

Long lifespan, and recyclable. Yes. But detail those penetrations and valleys carefully—metal leaks fast and loud.

You can’t "set it and forget it." Filters need changing, ventilation needs adjusting, and systems need love.

You can’t over-seal, only under-ventilate. Go tight—just plan for controlled fresh air.

In most climates, yes. They cut condensation, improve comfort, and reduce noise. Total vibe upgrade.

Totally. Passive is a performance spec, not a style. Good bones can wear any outfit.

Yep. Cold feet, condensation, and say yes. Even R-10 makes a big difference. But, do you really need that basement? Think of all the money and carbon you’d save without it.

If you're doing exterior insulation, yes. Otherwise, you’ve built a thick sweater with a steel headband.

Often a ductless mini-split. Keep it simple, efficient, and zoned for how people live.

Yes—but they might be overkill. You won’t need much heat, and all that equipment and tubing might seem like a lot of money to move around a fluid that’s below body temperature.

Love ’em in the right space. Just give them volume, airflow, and a place to dump cool exhaust.

Maybe not year-round, but in shoulder seasons or tight houses, they can be effective.

Absolutely. Affordable, low-carbon, and proven. The underdog of fluffy insulation

Only if you’re sure where the dew point lands. Otherwise, you’re just wrapping trouble in poly. Make sure you handle air-sealing first; that will do more to control vapor than an actual vapor barrier.

A well-layered window sill with WRB integration. Beauty, function, and flashing perfection.

Wrong U-value for climate, wrong SHGC for window size and exposure,  and poor attention to install. Even great windows leak if poorly set.

Technically yes—but it’s more about diminishing returns. Spend wisely across the whole envelope.

Only if it’s sealed, insulated, conditioned—and now it’s really a mini basement.

Say: “Super efficient, super comfortable, and designed to last.”

In mixed climates, yes. They adapt to humidity and help your assemblies dry both ways.

“It’s the emissions baked into your building before you even begin to use it. We can lower it with smart material choices.”

Yes—It’s the core of sustainable design. The sun rises and sets every day and gives us free light and heat. We would be fools not to take advantage of this.

Almost always, yes. That vented cold roof is still your best friend in snow country.

Polished concrete, wood sleepers, or engineered click-floors. Just don’t glue vinyl to it.

You should have a good idea of what your system is and how you are distributing the H, V, and AC throughout your home. Then work closely with a good HVAC designer. Don’t go it alone.

Not if you think it through early. It’s just a jacket—cut and zip it cleanly.

Yep. You’ll need shelf angles, smart spacing, and an air gap. It’s old-school meets new rules.

“Houses need to breathe.” Nope. People need to breathe. Houses need to dry (and should be airtight and ventilated).

Only in specific cases. With heat pumps getting better and solar dropping in price, the ROI is tighter. If the building is large and already efficient, and the demand for a radiant “invisible and silent” system is desired, then it might be worth the price.

Build a mock-up. Do a WUFI model. Or phone a friend who’s been there, failed that.

Not if you like dry sheathing. Even in dry climates, airflow behind cladding is cheap insurance.

Use screws, skip adhesives, and draw like someone might demo it someday.

Absolutely. When it’s better to live in, healthier to breathe in, and cheaper to run, it wins hearts

Yes. Safer, cleaner, more efficient—and better for indoor air quality. Gas is out.

Because buildings last. And the decisions we make now shape comfort, carbon, and community for generations. Also, we’re nerds. Cheers.